At a glance
| Best for | Discontinued appliance plastics where no spare exists |
|---|---|
| You send | The broken part, plus the appliance make and model number |
| Material | PETG — tougher and more heat-tolerant than PLA, which is what most repair parts need |
| Typical price | From £45 to draw, plus the print. Simple knobs and clips are usually at the lower end |
| Lead time | 2–4 working days to draw, then printing and post |
| Maximum part size | 256 × 256 × 256 mm in one piece; larger parts split and joined |
What we take on
- Control knobs and dials, including D-shaft and splined fittings
- Fridge and freezer shelf clips, door-bin lugs and drawer runners
- Dishwasher basket wheels, rail end-stops and cutlery-basket lids
- Tumble dryer and washing machine door catches, hinges and detergent-drawer parts
- Vacuum cleaner clips, tool holders and hose fittings
How it works when there is no file
Before you pay anyone, it is worth five minutes checking whether the part already exists for free.
- Search the model sites first. Printables and Thingiverse carry a great many appliance parts, and if yours is there you can have it printed by anyone, including us, for the cost of the print alone.
- If nothing fits, send us the broken part. With the appliance make and full model number, which is usually on a sticker inside the door or behind the drawer.
- We draw it and check the fitting. For a knob, the shaft is the part that matters; we print that end first and post it to you to try.
- We print and send the finished part. PETG, which handles warmth and detergent better than PLA.
Where this works well
- Parts that are out of support with no spare available anywhere
- Fittings you can post and that have a measurable shaft, hole or clip
- Warm but not hot environments — door furniture, shelves, drawers, controls
- Machines that are otherwise sound and worth keeping
Where it doesn’t
- Anything touching the hot circuit of an oven, hob or dryer heater
- Parts carrying water pressure or forming a seal against it
- Electrical components, switch internals, or anything inside a mains enclosure
- Load-bearing hinges on heavy doors, where a printed part can fail without warning
We will tell you to go elsewhere when that is the right answer
There are a great many free appliance models already drawn and shared, and for a common machine yours is probably among them. If you send us a part and we find an existing model that fits, we will say so — you then pay for printing rather than for drawing, which is a much smaller number. Charging a drawing fee for something already available would be poor value and we would rather have the repeat customer.
Where this service earns its keep is the long tail: older machines, imported models, facelift variants, and the specific shelf clip that nobody has ever bothered to draw.
Heat is the real limit
PETG softens at temperatures well below what an oven door or a dryer heater housing reaches. For anything on the warm side of an appliance — near a heating element, inside an oven cavity, or against the hot air path of a dryer — a printed part is the wrong answer and we will say so. Fridge, freezer, dishwasher and washing-machine parts sit comfortably inside what PETG handles.
Safety, plainly
We do not make electrical parts, parts that contain water under pressure, or anything whose failure would let a door swing open or a heavy drawer drop. If your broken part does one of those jobs, replace the appliance or get it professionally repaired. We would rather turn the work down.
Questions people ask about this
Is it food safe?
A printed part should not be treated as food safe. The layer lines give bacteria somewhere to sit and are very difficult to clean properly, and we cannot certify the filament for food contact. For shelf clips, door lugs and control knobs this is not an issue; for anything holding food directly it is, and we would not recommend it.
Can it go in the dishwasher?
PETG copes with a normal dishwasher cycle better than PLA, which will soften and distort. We would still keep printed parts off the heated drying element and out of the top of the cabinet during a hot dry.
I do not know the model number. Does that matter?
It helps a great deal but is not essential if you can send the part itself. The model number is what lets us check whether a genuine spare still exists, which is usually the cheaper answer for you.
How long will the printed part last?
For a shelf clip or a knob, years. The honest variable is load and heat rather than time: a part that flexes every day or sits somewhere warm will fatigue faster than the moulded original did. We print repair parts solid rather than lightly filled for this reason.
Send a photo of the broken part
With the make and model number if you have it. We will check whether a real spare still exists before quoting you for a copy.
Other repairs we take on
Already have a file? Price it instantly →